They're strong magnets too, once secured, you can only really open it from a little edge near the front panel with your fingertips. In fact it just snaps into position quite comfortably. Luckily I caught it before that happened.Īs for the bottom doors for the PSU cover/HDD area, I mean it's possible they may warp over time, it's a steel panel so it does have some potential flex in it unlike aluminum, but yes the magnets do help, as you're not trying to line up a thumbscrew or anything to secure it back in place. I was building in the Phanteks Evolv X a while back, took the front most tempered glass panel off, then opened the back panel too, and because the case was empty and the weight was so unevenly distributed the chassis almost fell over off of my work bench. In fact I'd recommend you do this before you commence building in it, at any point, just to keep them safe and the case balanced. With a lot of modern cases, the Lancool II included, you can actually remove the window panels entirely from the chassis, just by lifting it up and off the hinges. I mean I can't really comment as to its longevity, as we only really get to test each case for 2-3 builds before writing the review, but there's no reason I see why you should damage the windows/doors on it as long as you're careful. WINTERLORD said:hi, my main question on this case is i always end up bending the door or somthing after year or two of use has always been my main issue with cases cause i swap stuff out alot reorganize ect does the magnetic doors help eliminate the common problems of budget cases and doors? But despite the fact you can remove the hard drive caddy from its rail system entirely when the PSU isn’t installed, there’s seemingly no way of removing it from the case entirely, for those who have long given up on 3.5-inch hard drives.
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This is something you have to do if you want to install a 360mm radiator with that 110mm clearance we mentioned earlier. There’s also nine holes drilled into the bottom panel, so you can re-secure it down without worry. Simply remove one thumbscrew at the back of the case, and you can slide it along as close to the front of the chassis or to the rear near the power supply as you’d like. That foible aside, the caddy itself is situated on rails. As standard they’re not hot-swappable, but you can buy an adapter which mounts to the back of the caddy to support this for another $15 / £15. The trays are easy to pull out, easy to install a drive in, and slot nicely into position. The 3.5-inch drive situation with the Lancool II follows a similar trend to the USB Type C cover we mentioned earlier. Aside from that front panel, you can also mount a 240mm radiator up top, as the mounting location is offset enough to ensure there’s no incompatibilities with memory or motherboard heatsinks. To achieve the 110mm room, you do also have to move the hard drive cage back along its rails (as it’s adjustable), limiting space for the PSU and its cables, although we’ll discuss that shortly. But the option is there for thicker cooling setups.
That amount of space is a bit extreme, as most AIO combos only measure 52mm in total thickness with fans, and a push pull config would put that up to 77mm.
It’s that latter part that’s important here, as it allows you to install radiator and fan combos up to 110mm thick if you so desire. As mentioned earlier, you get that removable radiator bracket to attach your fans and radiator to (although Lian Li warns against attaching radiators directly to the inside of the bracket as it’ll damage the bracket itself), and the removable panel on the PSU cover too. For an $88 chassis (in its black configuration) cooling support is very strong.